Cocoa Butter for Skin: Benefits, Limits and Who It Suits
Cocoa butter is a rich plant butter that melts close to body temperature and works as an emollient and occlusive. It feels lovely on dry body skin, but it is heavy for many faces, and a placebo-controlled trial found it did not prevent stretch marks.
TL;DR
- What it is: the pale yellow fat pressed from the beans of the cacao tree, Theobroma cacao.
- What it does: softens skin and slows water loss as a rich emollient and occlusive.
- The feel: firm in the tub, melts on contact with skin, and sits on the heavy side.
- The research: a randomised trial in pregnant women found no clear difference between cocoa butter lotion and placebo for stretch marks.
- Who it suits: dry body skin. Many faces find it too rich.
- Our position: we don't currently use cocoa butter in any Dope Skin Co formula.
What is cocoa butter?
Cocoa butter is the pale yellow fat pressed from the beans of the cacao tree, Theobroma cacao. On an ingredient list it appears as Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter.
It is made up mostly of stearic, oleic and palmitic acids. That mix is why it is firm in the tub but melts close to body temperature.
What does cocoa butter do for skin?
Cocoa butter is a classic emollient and occlusive. It softens the skin surface and forms a light seal that slows water loss.
Layered over a humectant such as glycerine on damp skin, it helps hold that moisture in. That is the honest job: comfort and cushioning for dry skin.
Does cocoa butter prevent stretch marks?
A double-blind, placebo-controlled trial of cocoa butter lotion for stretch marks in pregnancy was published in BJOG in 2008. It found no clear difference between cocoa butter and the placebo lotion.
So a cocoa butter cream is a pleasant moisturiser, not a stretch mark preventer.
Not sure which moisturiser suits your skin? Take the skincare quiz for a routine matched to you.
Is cocoa butter good for your face?
It is a rich butter, and many faces find it heavy. Breakout-prone skin in particular often prefers lighter textures.
If you want a butter near your face, compare shea butter and mango butter, and keep the layer thin.
Who should be careful with cocoa butter?
Anyone who reacts to plant butters or oils should patch test first. Our guide to patch testing skincare properly shows how.
If your skin gets congested easily, start on a small area and see how it behaves before using it more widely.
How do you use cocoa butter?
Smooth a thin layer over damp skin after a shower, focusing on dry spots such as elbows, hands and shins. Warm it between your palms first so it spreads.
It is also a good ingredient in lip and hand products, where a richer texture is welcome.
Safety and typical concentration range
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) concluded in 2017 that 244 plant-derived fatty acid oils and butters, including cocoa seed butter, are safe as used in cosmetics.
As with any rich leave-on product, patch test first and stop if your skin stings or reddens.
Do we use cocoa butter at Dope Skin Co?
No. We don't currently use cocoa butter in any of our formulas.
If you are weighing up butters and oils, our guide to coconut oil is a good next read.
FAQ
Is cocoa butter the same as chocolate?
No. Cocoa butter is only the fat from the bean, without the cocoa solids or sugar that make chocolate.
Is cocoa butter vegan?
Yes. It comes from a plant.
Can cocoa butter clog pores?
Rich butters feel heavy on some skin, and breakout-prone skin often dislikes them. Comedogenic ratings are rough guides at best, so patch test and judge by your own skin.
Does cocoa butter smell like chocolate?
Unrefined cocoa butter does. Refined cocoa butter has little scent.
