Sodium Dehydroacetate in Skincare: What It Does and Why We Use It
Sodium dehydroacetate is a preservative, and a quiet one: it is used at low levels to help stop bacteria, yeast and mould growing in water-based skincare. It does nothing for your skin directly, and that is the point. The CIR reaffirmed it as safe as used in 2023.
What is sodium dehydroacetate?
Skincare that contains water needs protection against bacteria, yeast and mould. Sodium dehydroacetate is one of the ingredients used for that job. It is the sodium salt of dehydroacetic acid, and regulators assess the two together.
You will usually see it near the end of an ingredient list, which fits its low use level.
What does sodium dehydroacetate do for skin?
Nothing directly. Its job is protecting the formula so a product stays stable and usable for as long as the label says. We do not claim any benefit to skin from it.
Why we use sodium dehydroacetate
It is in four of our products: the Antioxidant Gel Cleanser, Botanical Antioxidant Serum, Antioxidant Moisturiser and Acai Purifying Clay Mask. In each one it works alongside phenoxyethanol as the preservation system.
A product with water in it needs proper protection, full stop. Using two preservatives lets each work at a lower level, which is a sensible way to do it.
Who is sodium dehydroacetate good for?
Most people use products containing it without a problem. Allergy reports exist but are few compared with how widely it is used, and the CIR judged the concern mitigated by the low use concentrations. One case series involved a cream containing 3%, far above normal cosmetic use, applied to leg ulcers where the skin was broken.
If you have broken skin or have reacted to preservatives before, patch test first. Our patch testing guide explains how.
How do you use it?
You do not use it directly. It is part of the formula, so use the finished product as directed.
What does it pair with?
Preservatives are usually combined so each can be used at a lower level. Our ethylhexylglycerin entry covers another ingredient often used to support a preservative system. Nothing needs to be kept away from it in your routine.
What does the research say?
It is well studied, with repeated regulator reviews. A human study cited in the Australian government assessment applied a 65% dehydroacetic acid paste or 60% sodium dehydroacetate paste under occlusive patches to 100 men and 100 women and found no skin reactions. The same assessment says allergic contact reactions in exposed people are considered rare.
Is sodium dehydroacetate safe?
United States. The CIR Expert Panel first assessed it in 1985, reaffirmed the conclusion in 2003, and reopened the assessment in 2023. It again concluded that sodium dehydroacetate and dehydroacetic acid are safe as used in the present practices of use and concentration.
The 2023 data reported maximum leave-on use of 0.6% for sodium dehydroacetate. That is a reported use level, not a limit set by the Panel.
Australia. A 2014 government assessment concluded the two ingredients are not considered to pose an unreasonable risk to public health, given their low hazard and the low concentrations in consumer products.
EU. The limit is 0.6% expressed as dehydroacetic acid, and use in sprays is not permitted.
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FAQ
Is sodium dehydroacetate safe in skincare?
The CIR Expert Panel reaffirmed it as safe as used in 2023, and an Australian government assessment found it does not pose an unreasonable risk at the low concentrations in consumer products.
What is the maximum amount allowed?
The EU limit is 0.6% expressed as dehydroacetic acid, and sprays are excluded.
Can it cause allergy?
Case reports exist, including a 3% cream used on leg ulcers. The CIR and the Australian assessment both treat the risk as low at normal use levels.
Why is it paired with phenoxyethanol?
Using more than one preservative lets each work at a lower level.
Related ingredients
Ethylhexylglycerin, glycerine, aloe vera and xanthan gum.
Sources
- Cherian P, et al. Sodium Dehydroacetate and Dehydroacetic Acid. International Journal of Toxicology 2024;43(4_suppl):130-134. Journal page
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. Sodium Dehydroacetate and Dehydroacetic Acid, re-review summary, September 2023. CIR summary
- NICNAS (now AICIS). Dehydroacetic acid and its sodium salt: Human health tier II assessment, 27 November 2014. AICIS assessment
