Urea in Skincare: What It Does and Who Should Be Careful
Urea is a moisture-binding ingredient that your skin already makes. In skincare it softens rough, dry skin, and at higher strengths it also loosens thick, flaky buildup.
TL;DR
- What it is: a small, water-loving molecule found naturally in the outer layer of skin.
- What it does: it holds water in skin and has a softening, smoothing effect on rough patches.
- The research: a 2013 review called it an effective, well-tolerated dermatology ingredient with minimal side effects.
- The catch: mild irritation is the most common side effect, and it is more frequent at high concentrations.
- Who it suits: people with dry, rough skin on the body, hands and heels.
- Our position: we don't currently use it.
What is urea?
Urea is a natural component of the horny layer, the outer layer of skin. In skincare the urea used is made in a lab, so it is not taken from urine or animals.
It is a small, water-soluble molecule, and it has been used in dermatology for many decades.
What does urea do for skin?
Urea is a humectant, meaning it draws water in and helps skin hold it. A 2021 review in Dermatology and Therapy describes it as emollient, moisturising, keratolytic and barrier-supporting.
Keratolytic means it helps loosen dead, thickened skin cells. That is why stronger urea products are used on rough heels and elbows.
Not sure what your dry skin needs? Our skin quiz can help you narrow it down.
Is urea good for dry skin?
It is one of the most established ingredients for dry, rough skin. A 2013 review in Dermatology Online Journal calls it a potent emollient and keratolytic agent, useful on its own for dry, scaly skin.
It sits in the same hydration family as glycerine and sodium PCA, though it can do more on thickened skin.
Can urea irritate skin?
It can. Mild irritation is the most common adverse effect reported in the 2013 review, and the 2021 review says side effects are more frequent at high concentrations.
It may sting on cracked or very inflamed skin. If that happens, switch to a gentler moisturiser and let the skin settle.
Who should be careful with urea?
People with very sensitive or broken skin should start slowly. Patch test first, using our patch testing guide.
If you have a skin condition such as persistent eczema or psoriasis, ask your GP before using stronger urea products.
How do you use urea?
Follow the directions on the product, because strength varies widely. Apply to clean, slightly damp skin, then seal it in with a moisturiser if the product is not already a cream.
Use higher-strength urea only on thick, rough areas. Keep it away from the face unless the product is made for it.
Safety and typical concentration range
We have not published a concentration range for urea because no regulator figure for it is available to quote. The reviews we draw on describe it as safe and well tolerated, with mild, non-systemic side effects.
Because strengths vary so much, the label and directions matter more than a general rule.
Do we use urea at Dope Skin Co?
We don't currently use it. For hydration we use humectants such as glycerine and sodium PCA.
FAQ
Is urea made from urine?
No. Cosmetic urea is made synthetically in a lab.
Is urea an exfoliant?
At higher strengths it acts as a gentle keratolytic, helping loosen dead skin cells. At lower strengths it is mainly a moisturiser.
Can I use urea on my face?
Only in a product made for the face. Body urea creams can be too strong for facial skin.
Can urea be combined with exfoliating acids?
You can, but together they may be more than your skin needs. Introduce them gradually and stop if skin stings.
Related ingredients
Sources
- Pan M et al. Urea: a comprehensive review of the clinical literature. Dermatol Online J, 2013;19(11)
- Piquero-Casals J et al. Urea in Dermatology: A Review of its Emollient, Moisturizing, Keratolytic, Skin Barrier Enhancing and Antimicrobial Properties. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb), 2021
- Swanbeck G. Urea in the treatment of dry skin. Acta Derm Venereol Suppl, 1992;72(177):7-8
