Acerola Cherry Extract in Skincare: What It Does and Who It Suits
Acerola cherry extract is an antioxidant-rich fruit extract from a fruit famous for its vitamin C, and it's a supporting player, not a stand-in for a proper vitamin C serum. The research is lab work on cells, so we like it as a promising ingredient rather than one with proven results.
What is acerola cherry extract?
Acerola comes from the fruit of Malpighia emarginata, a small tropical tree. It's also called Barbados cherry or West Indian cherry, and it originated in southern Mexico, Central America and northern South America.
It's now grown widely, with Brazil the largest producer (Mondin et al., Revista Brasileira de Fruticultura, 2010). A 2017 study that chemically profiled acerola fruit found it rich in vitamin C, total polyphenols, beta-carotene and folates, with flavonols (mostly forms of quercetin and kaempferol) and anthocyanins also identified.
On an ingredient list it appears as Malpighia Emarginata (Acerola) Fruit Extract, or as "Acerola Cherry Extract". An extract is a concentrated preparation of the fruit, and how much vitamin C ends up in a finished product depends on how the extract is made and how much is used. Our guide to botanical extracts in cosmetics explains the basics.
What does acerola cherry extract do for skin?
Acerola is used as an antioxidant ingredient. In the 2017 study, human dermal fibroblasts grown in a dish were pre-treated with an acerola extract and then exposed to oxidative stress. The extract lowered cell death, reactive oxygen species and markers of fat and protein damage, and it improved the activity of antioxidant enzymes and mitochondrial function.
That's a cell-culture result. It shows the extract protects cells in a controlled experiment. It doesn't show what a serum or toner will do on a person's face.
Why we use acerola cherry extract
You'll find it in our Glow Tonic and Serum and our Calming Collagen Tonic and Serum. Our formulator includes it as an antioxidant fruit extract, one part of a larger formula alongside the other actives in each product.
Our view: acerola is a nice addition, not the hero. We'd never pitch it as a replacement for a dedicated vitamin C product.
Who is acerola cherry extract good for?
Fruit extracts suit most skin types, but plant extracts can cause reactions in people who are sensitive to the plant or its components. If you've reacted to fruit-based products, patch test first. Our patch testing guide walks through the steps.
How do you use it?
You'll find acerola extract in toners, serums and moisturisers rather than on its own. Follow the directions on the product. If you're layering several actives, introduce one new product at a time so you can tell what your skin is responding to.
What does it pair with?
Acerola pairs sensibly with other antioxidants such as vitamin E and with other fruit extracts such as kakadu plum. It's a vitamin C-containing fruit extract, not a pure vitamin C ingredient, so it shouldn't be compared directly with a high-percentage ascorbic acid serum. For that comparison, see our guide to vitamin C.
What does the research say?
The short version: promising chemistry, early evidence.
The main source is Alvarez-Suarez and colleagues (Food & Function, 2017), a laboratory study on human dermal fibroblasts. It's useful because it characterises what is in acerola and shows an antioxidant effect in cells.
Its limits matter: it used a crude extract, a cell model and a chemical stressor, and it wasn't a study of a finished skincare product on people. That's why we make no anti-ageing, brightening or collagen claims for it.
Safety and regulation
Regulator positions specific to acerola fruit extract are limited, so we don't state a typical concentration range or a safety conclusion for it. Fruit extracts are widely used in cosmetics, individual reactions are possible, and patch testing is a sensible step with any new product.
Acerola cherry extract in Dope Skin Co products
It's listed in four products:
- Glow Serum
- Glow Tonic
- Calming Collagen Serum
- Calming Collagen Tonic
These formulas also contain other actives, so the acerola extract is one part of a larger formula. Not sure what suits you? Take our skincare quiz.
Frequently asked questions
Is acerola cherry extract the same as vitamin C?
No. Acerola is a fruit extract that contains vitamin C along with other compounds. It's not a pure ascorbic acid ingredient.
Does acerola extract brighten skin?
We don't make a brightening claim for it.
Is acerola cherry extract good for sensitive skin?
Many people use fruit extracts without problems, but reactions are possible. Patch test first.
Is acerola the same as kakadu plum?
No. They're different fruits, though both are known for vitamin C. We cover kakadu plum extract separately.
Can I use acerola extract with exfoliating acids?
Many formulas combine them. Follow the directions on each product and introduce one at a time.
Related ingredients
Sources
- Alvarez-Suarez JM, Giampieri F, Gasparrini M, et al. The protective effect of acerola (Malpighia emarginata) against oxidative damage in human dermal fibroblasts through the improvement of antioxidant enzyme activity and mitochondrial functionality. Food & Function 2017;8(9):3250-3258. Publication record | PubMed 28815233
- Mondin M, Oliveira AA, Vieira MLC. Karyotype characterization of Malpighia emarginata (Malpighiaceae). Revista Brasileira de Fruticultura 2010;32(2). Article
