Centella Asiatica in Skincare: What It Is and Who It Suits
Centella asiatica, also called cica or gotu kola, is a plant extract prized for a calming feel in sensitive-skin routines. The CIR considers its cosmetic forms safe as used, though most of the research is in the lab.
TL;DR
- What it is: a leafy plant, also known as gotu kola, tiger grass or cica.
- What is in it: triterpenoid compounds such as asiaticoside and madecassoside.
- What it does: conditions skin and is popular in products made for sensitive-feeling skin.
- The research: reviews describe antioxidant and calming-type activity, mostly from lab and animal work.
- Safety: the CIR found nine centella-derived ingredients safe as used, provided formulas avoid sensitisation.
- Our position: we don't currently use centella asiatica in any Dope Skin Co formula.
What is centella asiatica?
Centella asiatica is a creeping plant that grows in wet areas across Asia. It goes by several names, including gotu kola, tiger grass and cica, which is the K-beauty shorthand.
On labels you may see Centella Asiatica Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract or one of its isolated compounds, such as madecassoside.
What does centella asiatica do for skin?
Centella is used as a conditioning and calming-feel ingredient. That is why it turns up in creams, serums and masks aimed at skin that gets easily upset.
Its best-known compounds are asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. These triterpenoids are what most of the research is about.
What does the research say about centella asiatica?
Published reviews of asiaticoside and madecassoside describe antioxidant and calming-type activity. Much of that comes from lab and animal work rather than large human trials.
So centella is a promising supporting player. It is not a replacement for a proven active, and no ingredient is a quick fix for sensitive skin.
Sensitive skin and not sure where to start? Take the skincare quiz for a routine matched to you.
Who suits centella asiatica?
It suits people who want a gentle plant extract in a routine for easily upset skin. It pairs well with simple soothers such as allantoin and witch hazel extract.
If you know you react to plant extracts, patch test first.
How do you use centella asiatica?
Look for it in a toner, serum or moisturiser and introduce it on its own for a few uses before layering it with actives. Our guide to aloe vera covers another popular calming-feel plant.
If you are building a barrier-friendly routine, niacinamide is a well-studied companion.
Safety and typical concentration range
The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety, which runs the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), found in 2023 that nine Centella asiatica-derived ingredients are safe in the present practices of use and concentration in cosmetics.
That conclusion comes with a condition: they must be formulated to avoid causing sensitisation. Patch test first, and stop if your skin stings or reddens.
Do we use centella asiatica at Dope Skin Co?
No. We don't currently use centella asiatica in any of our formulas.
If you would like help choosing a routine for sensitive-feeling skin, the skincare quiz is the quickest place to start.
FAQ
Is cica the same as centella asiatica?
Yes. Cica is the K-beauty shorthand for the same plant.
Is centella asiatica the same as gotu kola?
Yes, it is the same plant under a different common name.
Does centella asiatica help with redness?
It is popular in products for sensitive-feeling skin, but we would not promise a specific effect. Research is mostly in the lab.
Can centella asiatica cause a reaction?
Contact allergy to centella has been reported rarely, so patch test first.
