Lanolin in Skincare: What It Does and Who Should Avoid It
Lanolin is a wax from sheep's wool that works as a rich emollient and moisture seal, and most people tolerate it well. It is also a recognised allergen, mainly on inflamed skin, and because it is animal-derived it is not vegan.
TL;DR
- What it is: a waxy substance from sheep's wool, used in balms, ointments and lip care.
- What it does: softens skin and slows moisture loss.
- The catch: contact allergy occurs in a small share of people with dermatitis.
- The paradox: some people react on inflamed skin but not on healthy skin.
- Not vegan: it comes from sheep, so vegan products leave it out.
- Our position: it is not in any of our formulas.
What is lanolin?
Lanolin is a waxy substance that sheep produce to protect their wool, extracted during wool processing. Skincare uses it in balms, ointments, nipple creams and lip products.
The American Contact Dermatitis Society described it as a moisturising wax extracted from sheep wool when it named lanolin its 2023 Allergen of the Year.
What does lanolin do for skin?
It is an emollient and an occlusive. It softens the surface of the skin and forms a layer that slows water loss.
That is why it is common in products for very dry skin and cracked lips. Many other ingredients do a similar job, including shea butter.
Is lanolin an allergen?
It can be. A review in Dermatology Times reports that lanolin contact allergy in people with dermatitis ranges from 1.2% to 6.9%.
Higher-risk groups include people with stasis dermatitis, leg ulcers, perianal or genital dermatitis and atopic dermatitis. The figure applies to patients being tested, not to the general population.
What is the lanolin paradox?
Some people test positive to lanolin but use it without trouble on healthy skin. The reaction can appear when lanolin products are used on inflamed or broken skin.
That makes the picture messy, and experts still debate the concentration used for patch testing.
What does the research say about lanolin?
Purified lanolin looks better than its reputation suggests. A 2019 study by Draelos, Kircik and Rigel followed 499 adults using a lanolin alcohol ointment after in-office surgery, and no allergic contact dermatitis was identified.
The ointment used a proprietary, highly purified lanolin alcohol that differs from the preparation on the standard patch test tray. So the result applies to that product, not to every lanolin.
Who should be careful with lanolin?
Anyone with a known lanolin allergy should avoid it, and check labels for lanolin, lanolin alcohol and wool wax. People with inflamed or broken skin should patch test first.
Our guide to patch testing skincare properly shows how.
How do you use lanolin?
Use it as a thin layer over damp skin so it seals in water. A little goes a long way.
If you are using it on a very dry area and the skin looks worse, stop and see a doctor. Do not push through a rash.
Safety and typical concentration range
Concentrations vary a lot by product type. Balms and ointments can contain a large share, while a face cream may contain a small amount.
Refinement changes how lanolin feels. The Dermatology Times review notes that highly purified anhydrous lanolin was the lightest in colour, least sticky and most spreadable of the products tested.
Do we use lanolin at Dope Skin Co?
No. Lanolin comes from sheep, so it is not vegan, and it is not in any of our formulas.
If your skin is dry and tight, our guide to skin barrier repair covers what helps.
FAQ
Is lanolin the same as wool allergy?
Not necessarily. Lanolin is a wax from wool, and allergy to it is a separate question you can answer with a patch test.
Is lanolin vegan?
No. It comes from sheep's wool.
What is another name for lanolin on a label?
Look for lanolin, lanolin alcohol, wool wax and wool alcohol.
Is lanolin good for dry lips?
It is common in lip balms because it seals in moisture. If your lips sting or swell, stop using it.
