Matrixyl (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4): What It Does and What the Research Shows
Matrixyl is a trade name for palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, a short chain of amino acids joined to a fatty acid. One 12-week split-face study of 93 women found a small improvement in fine lines and wrinkles, and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel considers it safe in cosmetics at the tiny levels used.
TL;DR
- What it is: a five-amino-acid peptide (Pal-KTTKS) modelled on a fragment of collagen and attached to palmitic acid, a fatty acid.
- The research: a 12-week double-blind split-face study in 93 women, using a moisturiser with 3 ppm, reported small improvements in wrinkles at weeks 8 and 12 versus a control moisturiser.
- The honest read: the results were small, so this is a supporting player rather than a retinol replacement.
- Safety: the CIR panel's 2024 report concluded palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is safe in cosmetics at current use levels, which top out at 0.0012% in leave-on products.
- Matrixyl 3000: a different pairing of peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7), also assessed as safe at low levels.
- Our position: our creams use soy rice peptides, not Matrixyl.
What is Matrixyl?
Matrixyl is a brand name for palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, which you will also see written as Pal-KTTKS. It is a peptide, which is a short chain of amino acids, here five of them, with a fatty acid attached so it can sit in skin more easily.
The peptide sequence mimics a small fragment of collagen. The idea is that this fragment acts as a signal to skin cells.
What does Matrixyl do for skin?
The theory is that the peptide tells skin cells to make more of the proteins that give skin its structure. That is the mechanism proposed in cosmetic science, and it is where the interest came from.
What has been measured in people is how skin looks. In the main human study, fine lines and wrinkles improved a little over 12 weeks compared with a control moisturiser.
If you are curious how peptides sit inside a real formula, our Retinol Eye Cream and Night Repair Cream both list soy rice peptides.
What does the research say about Matrixyl?
The study the Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel describes was double-blind, placebo-controlled and split-face. It followed 93 women for 12 weeks, using a moisturiser with 3 parts per million of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4.
Wrinkle and fine-line improvement was significant at weeks 8 and 12 compared with the control moisturiser, though it was described as small. The product was well tolerated.
That is a decent result for a peptide, and a modest one next to retinol.
What is the difference between Matrixyl and Matrixyl 3000?
Matrixyl is palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 on its own. Matrixyl 3000 is the later blend of palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7.
The CIR panel assessed those two in 2018 and concluded they are safe in cosmetics at current use levels, which are typically below 10 parts per million.
Who should be careful with Matrixyl?
In the safety tests the CIR reviewed, irritation was uncommon. Still, patch test any new product, and stop if your skin reacts.
Our guide to patch testing skincare properly shows how.
How do you use Matrixyl?
You do not apply it on its own. It is added to serums and creams, so the product's directions are the ones to follow.
Pair a peptide product with sunscreen by day and a moisturiser that suits your skin. Consistency matters more than layering extras on top.
Safety and typical concentration range
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel published its final report on pentapeptide-4 ingredients in 2024. It concluded palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration.
Reported leave-on use levels range from 0.00036% to 0.0012%, with the highest in face and neck products and eye lotions. In human repeat-insult patch tests on a 0.12% formulation, no irritation or sensitisation was seen in 106 subjects.
Do we use Matrixyl at Dope Skin Co?
No. The peptides in our eye and night creams are soy rice peptides, not Matrixyl. Our guide to soy rice peptides explains what they are.
Not sure what your skin needs? The skin quiz takes a couple of minutes.
FAQ
Is Matrixyl the same as palmitoyl pentapeptide-4?
Yes. Matrixyl is the trade name, and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is the name on the ingredient list.
Does Matrixyl work like retinol?
No. They work differently, and the peptide's measured effect on wrinkles was small.
Can you use Matrixyl with retinol?
Peptides and retinol are often combined in the same formula. Introduce new products one at a time so you can tell what your skin likes.
Is Matrixyl safe?
The CIR panel concluded it is safe in cosmetics at current use levels.
How long does Matrixyl take to work?
In the main study, improvement was significant at weeks 8 and 12. Results vary from person to person.
Not to be confused with palmitoyl tripeptide-38, a different peptide sold as Matrixyl synthe'6.
Related ingredients
Sources
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. Safety Assessment of Myristoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, and Pentapeptide-4 as Used in Cosmetics. Final report, 2024
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. Safety Assessment of Palmitoyl Oligopeptides as Used in Cosmetics. Report, 2012
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. Safety Assessment of Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-12, Their Metal Salts and Fatty Acyl Derivatives, and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as Used in Cosmetics. Int J Toxicol, 2018;37(3 suppl):90S-102S
