Decyl Glucoside: A Gentle Cleanser Ingredient With One Catch
Decyl glucoside is a mild cleansing agent made from sugar and fatty alcohols, and it is one of the gentler surfactants in face and body washes. It is also a recognised, if uncommon, contact allergen, so mild does not mean allergy-proof.
TL;DR
- What it is: a surfactant, or cleansing agent, made by joining glucose from plants to a fatty alcohol.
- What it does: lifts oil and dirt and makes a light, creamy lather without the harshness of some older surfactants.
- The research: the CIR panel concluded alkyl glucosides, decyl glucoside included, are safe as used when formulated to be non-irritating.
- The catch: alkyl glucosides were named the American Contact Dermatitis Society's Allergen of the Year for 2017. Sensitisation is uncommon, below 2% of patch-tested people, but it has been rising.
- Who should care: people with atopic skin or a history of reacting to cleansers, and anyone who has reacted to one alkyl glucoside.
- Our position: decyl glucoside is not in our formulas. We use a related one, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, in a few products.
What is decyl glucoside?
Decyl glucoside belongs to a family called alkyl glucosides. They are made by joining a sugar, glucose, to a fatty alcohol, and the ones used in cosmetics are usually made from plant sources.
It turns up in facial cleansers, shampoos, baby washes and body washes. It is also found in some leave-on products, such as moisturisers and sunscreens.
What does decyl glucoside do in skincare?
It is a surfactant. One end of the molecule likes water and the other likes oil, which lets it lift dirt and oil off skin so it can be rinsed away.
Compared with many older cleansing agents it is gentle, which is why it is popular in products for sensitive skin. It foams lightly, so cleansers built on it can feel soft rather than squeaky.
Is decyl glucoside actually gentle?
Mostly, yes. A review in The Dermatologist describes alkyl glucosides as having very mild irritant properties.
The catch is allergy. A mild irritant and a contact allergen are different things, and decyl glucoside can be both gentle on most skin and a problem for the few who become allergic.
Can you be allergic to decyl glucoside?
Yes. The American Contact Dermatitis Society named alkyl glucosides its Allergen of the Year for 2017, partly because their use in cosmetics and household products keeps growing.
The Dermatologist reports sensitisation rates below 2%, rising from 1.5% in 2009 to 2012 to 1.7% in 2013 to 2014, with a preliminary 1.9% for the following period. Decyl glucoside has been included in routine patch testing in North America since 2009.
DermNet adds that an allergy to one alkyl glucoside can cross-react with others, so a reaction to decyl glucoside may mean other alkyl glucosides are also best avoided.
Who should be careful with decyl glucoside?
People with atopic skin should take extra care. In one Canadian patient group, 86% of those allergic to decyl and lauryl glucoside had a history of atopy, according to The Dermatologist.
The same review points out that these ingredients often appear in products marketed as hypoallergenic or for sensitive skin. Read the ingredient list, and patch test with our guide to patch testing skincare properly.
How do you use decyl glucoside?
You do not choose it directly. It is built into a cleanser or wash, so follow that product's directions and rinse thoroughly.
If a cleanser leaves your skin red, itchy or tight after rinsing, check the label for alkyl glucosides. Surfactant alternatives in our library include cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium cocoyl isethionate.
Safety and typical concentration range
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel assessed decyl glucoside and other alkyl glucosides in 2013. It concluded they are safe as used when formulated to be non-irritating.
Use levels vary by product. For comparison, DermNet notes that patch testing for lauryl glucoside, a close relative, uses 3% in petrolatum.
Do we use decyl glucoside at Dope Skin Co?
No. Decyl glucoside is not in any of our formulas. We do use a related ingredient, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, in our Glow Tonic, Calming Collagen Tonic, AHA/BHA Exfoliating Tonic and AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser.
If you know you react to alkyl glucosides, check the label before you buy. Not sure what your skin needs? The skin quiz takes a couple of minutes.
FAQ
Is decyl glucoside plant-derived?
It is made from plant-derived sugar and fatty alcohol. Being plant-derived says nothing about whether you will react to it.
Is decyl glucoside sulfate-free?
Yes. It is not a sulfate surfactant.
Is decyl glucoside safe for sensitive skin?
It is mild for most people, but it is a known contact allergen. Patch test first.
Is decyl glucoside the same as coco glucoside?
No, but they are close relatives. Both are alkyl glucosides made from glucose and fatty alcohols.
Where is decyl glucoside found?
In facial cleansers, shampoos, baby washes and body washes, and in some leave-on products. If a wash leaves your skin irritated, check the label for alkyl glucosides.
If you are curious how harsher sulfate cleansers differ, our guide to sodium lauryl sulfate explains.
