Tremella (Snow Mushroom) in Skincare: What It Does
Tremella, also called snow mushroom, is a white fungus whose sugar-like polysaccharides bind water, which is why it is used as a hydrating ingredient. The evidence is early: lab work on its moisture capacity, and one small volunteer study of a formula containing it.
TL;DR
- What it is: an extract of Tremella fuciformis, a translucent white fungus eaten in Chinese cooking.
- What it does: acts as a humectant, drawing and holding water on the skin surface.
- The research: a 2019 lab study measured the moisture capacity of its polysaccharides, and a 2023 study in 20 volunteers found a formula with the extract hydrated more than the same formula without it.
- The comparison: it is often called a plant alternative to hyaluronic acid. It does a similar job, but it is a different molecule with far less research.
- Safety: the 2023 study reported no irritation or sensitisation in volunteers.
- Our position: tremella is not in our formulas.
What is tremella?
Tremella fuciformis is a translucent white fungus that grows on dead wood and looks a little like a frilled jellyfish. It is known as snow mushroom or snow fungus and has long been eaten in Chinese cooking.
In skincare, the useful part is a group of polysaccharides, which are long sugar chains that bind water. On a label look for Tremella fuciformis extract or Tremella fuciformis sporocarp extract.
What does tremella do for skin?
It is a humectant. Humectants attract water and help the skin surface hold on to it, which makes skin feel softer and less tight.
The polysaccharides can also form a thin, flexible film on the skin that slows water loss. That film is part of why the ingredient feels silky rather than sticky.
Is tremella really a plant version of hyaluronic acid?
Marketing loves the comparison, and it makes sense for function. Both are humectants that hold water.
They are different molecules, though, and hyaluronic acid has far more research behind it. Think of tremella as a promising supporting player for hydration rather than a proven swap.
What does the research say about tremella?
A 2019 lab study in the journal Molecules compared tremella polysaccharides dried in different ways and measured their moisture capacity. It tested the material itself, not skin.
A 2023 study in the journal Cosmetics tested a formula with tremella extract on 20 volunteers. Both the formula with the extract and the version without it increased skin hydration, and the extract version did better.
That is encouraging, but it is a small study of a finished product. It does not tell you how much of the benefit came from tremella itself.
Who should use tremella?
It suits dry and dehydrated skin that wants a lightweight, silky hydrator. It is also easy to layer under a moisturiser.
If you are comparing hydrators, beta glucan and sodium PCA do a similar job and are easy to find in formulas.
How do you use tremella?
You will usually meet it inside a serum, essence or moisturiser. Apply it to slightly damp skin and follow with a moisturiser to hold the water in.
Patch test any new product first. Our guide to patch testing skincare properly shows how.
Safety and typical concentration range
The safety data we can point to is the 2023 study in 20 volunteers, which reported no redness, swelling or irritation at 48 and 72 hours and no sensitisation.
Amounts vary by product, so follow the product's own directions.
Do we use tremella at Dope Skin Co?
No. Tremella is not in any of our formulas. We lean on other hydrators, including hyaluronic acid, sodium PCA and beta glucan.
Not sure what your skin needs? The skin quiz takes a couple of minutes.
FAQ
Is tremella the same as snow mushroom?
Yes. Tremella fuciformis is the snow mushroom, also called snow fungus.
Is tremella better than hyaluronic acid?
There is not enough research to say. Hyaluronic acid has far more evidence behind it.
Is tremella vegan?
It is a fungus, so it contains no animal-derived material.
Can you use tremella on sensitive skin?
The small 2023 study reported no irritation, but patch test any new product first.
What does tremella look like on an ingredient list?
Look for Tremella fuciformis extract or Tremella fuciformis sporocarp extract.
Related ingredients
Sources
- Lin CP, Tsai SY. Differences in the Moisture Capacity and Thermal Stability of Tremella fuciformis Polysaccharides Obtained by Various Drying Processes. Molecules, 2019;24(15):2856
- Woźniak B et al. Optimization of the Composition of a Cosmetic Formulation Containing Tremella fuciformis Extract (Fungi). Cosmetics, 2023;10(3):82
